Review | Make Up For Ever HD Microperfecting Primer

Fan of primers? Do you use them on a regular basis, or do you skip them due to lack of time?

My combination skin fits more on the dry category, so my primer of choice is usually moisturizer. Not an overly thick texture, like you'd apply at nighttime, but something than provides deep hydration while absorbing quickly, making your base glide over. This is essential for me, because foundation and dry patches don't look good together...

I haven't tried many complexion primers, but whilst going through my make-up drawers, I found these HD Primers from Make Up For Ever, in Neutral and Caramel. The first is great for all skin tones and Caramel is ideal to warm up darker ones, or, mixed with the Neutral, to provide a slight bronze glow.

Other colour correcting shades in the range include: Green, to neutralize redness; Blue, adds radiance to fair skin; Yellow, lightens dark complexions; Pink, brightens the complexion; and Mauve to counteract sallow undertones.

Being oil free, this gel formula can be used on every skin type, from dry to oily, providing lightweight hydration and making the base last longer. But, for me, its most important task is helping the base just glide over it. Perfect finish!

The application is quite easy and quick: simply apply a couple of pumps with fingers or a brush of choice, before your foundation. The alternative method is mixing it with the foundation, achieving a sheer coverage. Oily skins just need a fine dust of powder on top.

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The beauty bag | Summer heat update

Current location? Lisbon, Portugal. Temperature? Very warm. So, naturally, the contents of my beauty bag have changed.

First of all, I've decided to edit and simplify this group of products. Meaning, I'm not carrying around 10 lippies anymore. Whether you're going to a festival or just commuting in a crowded bus with broken air conditioner (lovely), you'll want to make an effort so that your make-up don't melt off your face.

The key to choosing the right products is testing their longevity. Usually, spotting the expression waterproof or long lasting on the label is a good sign. Some ranges I really like, especially for this type of hot and humid weather, are Urban Decay 24/7 and Make Up For Ever Aqua. They stay in place all day (and night), so you can just apply them in the morning and forget you have make-up on.

The current face division consists of Urban Decay 24/7 Concealer Pencil in NSA, to conceal dark circles and redness around the nose, and Chanel Natural Finish Pressed Powder in 30 Naturel, to mattify the T-zone. If I feel like wearing any sort of base, I'll go for MAC Face and Body Foundation in C5 — entitled as the perfect base for warmer months, thanks to its water-resistant quality. A teeny tiny dab of Make Up For Ever HD Microfinish Cream Blush (in the shade 4 Walk of Shame) on the cheeks, provides a healthy glow. It doesn't contain shimmer, but gives a soft-focus effect.

To frame the face, I apply a bit of M.U.F.E. Aqua Brow in 25 Ash, using a slanted tip brush (like MAC 208). It is unbelievably good at filling in sparse areas or even drawing in full brows, when they fit in the very fair category or, even when they are virtually non-existent. Naturally, an essential part of my kit.

In the eye department, a swipe of Rimmel Scandaleyes Stick in Bad Girl Bronze on the lid, blended in with fingers or a fluffy brush, makes a good base. To define the lashline, a quick application of Make Up For Ever Aqua Eyes does the trick. The shade Pearly Brown 2L gives a softer look, but you can just go for Matte Black 0L to intensely define the eye. For mascara, choose a formula that doesn't smudge on you. Usually, I don't have an issue with this, so I rarely wear waterproof formulas. Having said that, I really like Make Up For Ever Aqua Smoky Lash.

To finish off the look, a long-lasting lipstick does the job. My most reached for have been Burberry Lip Velvet in Rose Azalea No. 308 (love that shade) and Aqua Rouge liquid lipstick (in 2 Rosewood).
On dry lip occasions, I reach for Clinique Chubby Stick (in Two Ton Tomato), of course.

Some other essentials that jumped into my beauty bag are Caudalie Beauty Elixir (gotta have a refreshing mist on hand), Japonesque Blotting Paper Pouch (does what it says on the tin), Clarins Hand and Nail Treatment Cream and a mini perfume atomizer or rollerball, in this case, Burberry Body.

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Loose powders | Chanel, MAC and Make Up For Ever

My first powder purchases came in a compact form. A choice motivated by the awareness of my own clumsiness — that was more severe, back then — resulting in a powder-coated desk. And floor. 

This practical thought, was later developed by a new motivation: an improvement on my skills. I had noticed that the pros preferred loose powders and, through my infinite research on the web, I found that it provided a better result.

I'm not one to powder the whole face. Just a dab on the nose and, sometimes, I set the concealer using the remaining product on the brush.
Powders do neutralize the shine, which is great, but due to this quality, some of them might become more detectable on the skin. Not so great.

The first loose powder I played with was Make Up For Ever HD Powder. It is very, very fine — a sweep with the brush results in a cloud of white dust in the air — and transparent to the naked eye or in filming. Apparently, not so great with flash photography, it might result in a white cast (see Wayne's video, here). Nonetheless, it makes the skin look pretty much flawless and unbelievably soft to the touch, as it's made of silica powder. Comes in one universal shade that suits all, but do apply sparingly.
Being a great setting and mattifying tool, the HD Powder also enhances dry patches. So, when the priority is to set the concealer on a dry under eye area, this might not be the best offering.

Another product of sorts, it's the MAC Prep+Prime Transparent Finishing Powder. Again, one universal shade that suits all and, even though the particles are less fine — no cloud formation — I find this one more transparent. A great one for T-zone duties, since it perfects the look of pores and controls shine.

After sitting in my mental list for quite some time, Chanel Natural Finish Loose Powder entered my collection, by surprise, on account of an impulsive buy. It actually does provide a natural finish and it is, by far, the best to set the under eye area or to use on dry skin types. Whilst being transparent, it does unify the complexion, allowing the use on bare skin. And, controls shine without a dull appearance. My recommending finger points immediately to this one.

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Concealing (truly) dark circles

If you own a pair of these, then I bet you roll your eyes out when someone says "I suffer from really bad dark circles", but really it's a sheer blue/purple toned (temporary) shadow.

I'm talking about the real thing, as in whether you sleep well or not, it doesn't make the slightest difference. Along with those big brown eyes, you also inherited the dark circles around them. And I mean circles, literally.

What you can do, is to embrace the world of make-up to cover them up. Considering that we are are trying to make that area much lighter, in order to match the surrounding skin, it is not an easy breezy goal to achieve. At first.

There are quite different types of concealers or correctors to choose from, just depends on the final result that you're looking for.

HIGH COVERAGE CONCEALER

This is an obvious choice and, probably, the first solution you think of. A concealer like Make Up For Ever Full Cover or Urban Decay 24/7 Concealer Pencil are the go-to options, if you want something that will last all day — especially in hot, humid weather — and effectively provide a flawless look.

They're less creamy and require a quick application, because they set. Which is great, since there's no collecting into fine lines during the day. But, it also means that usually the finish is matte — not the best option for dry skin types. Do opt for a shade that is just a bit lighter, considering that matte products usually look darker once they set.

BRIGHTENING CORRECTOR

The oldest trick in the book is applying a corrector with a peach or pink tint. Usually creamier in texture, correctors help to neutralize and warm up the the brown/ashy colour of the circles, brightening the area — ideal to use in the inner corners, since most people have a little receding area that creates a shadow. 

Top rated options include the notorious Bobbi Brown Creamy Corrector and my favourite: Giorgio Armani Master Corrector. You wouldn't believe what a teeny-tiny amount of this liquid can achieve. Five stars.

HIGHLIGHTING PENS

I'm sure you've seen a lot of them around, lately. Both high-end and High Street brands have a product of sorts, but they are not all the same. One thing they have in common is the light reflecting quality, which is brilliant to brighten the inner corners, where it's usually darker.

Most of them have a beige/golden tone that allows you to wear it after your regular concealer, sparingly, bringing a bit of sheen on a matte or dull finish. Top picks: Guerlain Precious Light and Yves Saint Laurent Touche Éclat, of course.

Some highlighting pens have more of a peach or pink shade, that almost works as a corrector. Yes, the formula is more sheer, but for an effortless and natural "no make-up" look, the light reflecting attribute counteracts the darkness, allowing you to pull it of on it's own. Just rely on a product that works best for you, making sure that it's not very sheer. Do try Clinique Airbrush Concealer.

A while ago, I tried a sample of Burberry Sheer Concealer and was taken aback by it's coverage. Not only had the perfect corrector shade (Rosy Beige No.03), but the formula wasn't as sheer as I'd expected. I actually picked it up before finishing this post. 

I must mention a very important detail here: these are not ideal for photography, because of their light reflecting properties, which may not look great on camera. Unless they're used sparingly in specific areas, like the top of cheekbones or the very inner corners.

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Essentials | Make-up Products

This is the first part of a two part post. It's basically about make-up essentials, either for a beginner who doesn't know what to get, or for someone who might be a bit overwhelmed by all the offerings and can't decide where to splurge. This part will focus on actual make-up products and the next one is all about the brushes.

Starting with the face, everyone can benefit from a light coverage foundation or a tinted moisturizer. Doesn't matter if you have clear skin or some spots, you absolutely want your skin to show through — and actually look like skin, not a mask. You can always go back with a good concealer and cover just those little spots or discolorations. Of course, the finish of this base should apply to your skin type — more of a dewy/radiant finish for dry ones or a matte finish for oily types.
A good option is something like MAC Face And Body Foundation (the image above shows the shade C5). It has a natural (but buildable) coverage and works well on most skin types. It's water-based, so you have to shake it well before opening the bottle. Blends easily into the skin and can be used on the body, as well.
Next, a concealer that works on the "imperfections" you're trying to cover. So if you're only concerned about under eye circles, invest in a more emollient formula that doesn't dry out and has that brightening peachy-pink tone. Now, if your main concern is spots, then invest in a high coverage concealer that doesn't move too much. Something like the Urban Decay 24/7 Concealer Pencil (shown in NSA) works really well on covering spots — and under eye circles too, actually. Besides, it stays put all day.

A good, brightening pink toned blusher is an absolute essential for anyone. Of course, you can vary the shade of pink according to the skin tone. The picture above shows the sheer powder formula of the Burberry Light Glow in Peony Blush No. 04, which I reviewed here (make sure to check the others, too).
If your skin gets oily during the day, even if it's just on the T-zone, invest on a good mattifying powder that doesn't cake up. Set your make-up when you first apply it, then carry a compact version to touch up on the go. There are many good offers, both on the high street and on high-end brands. An all time favourite of mine is the Chanel Natural Finish Loose/Compact Powder. If you choose one, go for the compact, since it's more practical (mine is in the shade 30 Naturel).
Another optional product is an eyebrow filler. This could be a pen, pencil, eyeshadow or gel. Bare in mind that unless you're a redhead, the shade should be on the cooler side (greige, taupe) and matte. Now, if you're blessed with perfect Cara-like brows, this is not a necessity. But, if on the other hand, you suffer from those cheeky little gaps, then something like the Dior Powder Eyebrow Pencil could be your friend.

A matte, nude-toned eyeshadow always comes in handy to neutralize the eyelids or to help blend other colours. The image above shows the Make Up For Ever Matte Eye Shadow in 76 - Beige. The Urban Decay Naked/Naked 2 Palettes have really good ones, too — Foxy, Naked or Buck.
An eyeliner in brown, black or plum always comes in handy. Make Up For Ever and Urban Decay make really good waterproof versions that don't move during the day. The Yves Saint Laurent Long-Lasting Eye Pencil comes in many colours and has a sponge tip on the opposite side of the pencil, that helps to achieve a smokey look on the go. Why not?
The next step makes all the difference: mascara. A good mascara that provides volume and length to the lashes, really helps to define and open up the eyes. I've been loving the Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara in Over Black 090, lately — review coming up soon.

For lips, go for something moisturizing that provides a sheer amount of colour. The Clinique Chubby Sticks are very practical, or, just an everyday nude, Kat Von D Painted Love Lipstick in Lolita, which is a dusty rose. Lovely.
Make-up arsenal complete! Now, add these suggestions to your mental shopping list and check them out the next time you pass a beauty counter.

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Top picks | Peach correctors

If you have dark circles under the eyes or discoloration, then corrector is your friend. If your skin tone is medium to dark, then corrector is your best friend.
Basically, if you feel that a concealer alone isn't doing enough, then you probably need a corrector to neutralize an ashy tone (using peach or pink shades) or redness/spots (using yellow or green toned correctors).
Since I have permanent dark circles, I always need to apply something with a peach tone to correct the shadow and brighten up the area. Only a product like Make Up For Ever Full Cover, being completely opaque, could camouflage the darkness completely, but I find it too drying and heavy to use under the eyes. If I want to go light with the amount of product applied, then I rely on a highlighting pen to brighten key areas.

One that I find has the best texture is the Giorgio Armani Master Corrector in Abricot. It comes in a liquid form and has a nice payoff, which is quite rare. The fine wand allows for precise application and a little bit goes a long way. Looks very natural — on it's own or under a base/concealer — and feels very comfortable on the skin. And, probably because you don't need much at all, it doesn't crease. The formula contains vitamin E and glycerin. I think this suits light to medium skin tones pretty well, but I'm not sure if it works on darker ones. Would be nice to have another shade in the the same Abricot family.

The next one, is a holy grail product in the blogosphere: Bobbi Brown Corrector in Peach. A truly creamy formula, that blends easily and is infused with skin conditioners. This product works best under a concealer that matches the skin tone, especially on yellow undertones. Provides a good coverage, but in my case, creases a bit without powder on top. The best part is the wide shade range that will suit everyone, whether you need a peach or a bisque corrector. Big thumbs up!

Speaking of wide shade ranges, all MAC concealers that come in NW shades are ideal for correcting the under eye area. For example, Studio Finish Concealer (shown above in NW25) provides a really good coverage, due to it's waxy texture, that works best when warmed up with fingers and patted on, for a natural coverage — as natural as a full coverage gets, really. Also great to cover blemishes or tattoos. The formula with an SPF 35 is water resistant, fragrance-free and non-comedogenic. Contains antioxidants and silica — the latter absorbs skin's oils to provide a matte finish that lasts longer.

A good option to correct really dark circles or patches (sometimes around the mouth) is Make Up For Ever Camouflage Cream in 20 Orange. This looks a bit scary on the pot, but does a great job in neutralizing bluish circles or dark areas on the skin. As one would've guess, this has to be topped up by a concealer, to achieve a natural, seamless finish. For light to medium skin tones it's best to mix it with a concealer (that is a shade lighter) and then apply the usual concealer on top. The mixing ratio depends on your personal shade, so it's best to try ahead and see which "formula" suits you best. A good test (for anything) is looking closely into a mirror with bright sunlight.

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