Concealing (truly) dark circles

If you own a pair of these, then I bet you roll your eyes out when someone says "I suffer from really bad dark circles", but really it's a sheer blue/purple toned (temporary) shadow.

I'm talking about the real thing, as in whether you sleep well or not, it doesn't make the slightest difference. Along with those big brown eyes, you also inherited the dark circles around them. And I mean circles, literally.

What you can do, is to embrace the world of make-up to cover them up. Considering that we are are trying to make that area much lighter, in order to match the surrounding skin, it is not an easy breezy goal to achieve. At first.

There are quite different types of concealers or correctors to choose from, just depends on the final result that you're looking for.

HIGH COVERAGE CONCEALER

This is an obvious choice and, probably, the first solution you think of. A concealer like Make Up For Ever Full Cover or Urban Decay 24/7 Concealer Pencil are the go-to options, if you want something that will last all day — especially in hot, humid weather — and effectively provide a flawless look.

They're less creamy and require a quick application, because they set. Which is great, since there's no collecting into fine lines during the day. But, it also means that usually the finish is matte — not the best option for dry skin types. Do opt for a shade that is just a bit lighter, considering that matte products usually look darker once they set.

BRIGHTENING CORRECTOR

The oldest trick in the book is applying a corrector with a peach or pink tint. Usually creamier in texture, correctors help to neutralize and warm up the the brown/ashy colour of the circles, brightening the area — ideal to use in the inner corners, since most people have a little receding area that creates a shadow. 

Top rated options include the notorious Bobbi Brown Creamy Corrector and my favourite: Giorgio Armani Master Corrector. You wouldn't believe what a teeny-tiny amount of this liquid can achieve. Five stars.

HIGHLIGHTING PENS

I'm sure you've seen a lot of them around, lately. Both high-end and High Street brands have a product of sorts, but they are not all the same. One thing they have in common is the light reflecting quality, which is brilliant to brighten the inner corners, where it's usually darker.

Most of them have a beige/golden tone that allows you to wear it after your regular concealer, sparingly, bringing a bit of sheen on a matte or dull finish. Top picks: Guerlain Precious Light and Yves Saint Laurent Touche Éclat, of course.

Some highlighting pens have more of a peach or pink shade, that almost works as a corrector. Yes, the formula is more sheer, but for an effortless and natural "no make-up" look, the light reflecting attribute counteracts the darkness, allowing you to pull it of on it's own. Just rely on a product that works best for you, making sure that it's not very sheer. Do try Clinique Airbrush Concealer.

A while ago, I tried a sample of Burberry Sheer Concealer and was taken aback by it's coverage. Not only had the perfect corrector shade (Rosy Beige No.03), but the formula wasn't as sheer as I'd expected. I actually picked it up before finishing this post. 

I must mention a very important detail here: these are not ideal for photography, because of their light reflecting properties, which may not look great on camera. Unless they're used sparingly in specific areas, like the top of cheekbones or the very inner corners.

Tweet

Sort it out | The 5 minute make-up routine

We all try to be there in time. To work, to school or to meet a friend. Sometimes, I get up earlier and think "oh, I can take my time to get ready today". But somehow, I end up being late. Again.
I always have a "Plan B" for those days when I gasp, whilst staring at the watch unbelievably. "What? But...how? Argh!" Don't panic. Just cross those non-essential steps off the list, to get you out the door as quickly as possible.

I usually style my hair at night, so that's sorted — I just need to comb it through, which takes about 5 seconds. I also lay out my outfit and accessories. But, when it comes to make-up, there's not much you can do, besides making sure that the usual suspects are easily accessible.

What you can do, is choosing foolproof products. Opt for the ones that don't require a lot of blending or layering. Cut out all of those steps that aren't really necessary to look presentable to the world, like curling lashes or contouring. Oh, and this selection should include items that you absolutely trust. New products are fun to try, when you have the time.

Considering that these products should fit in the category "pop on and go", opt for a tinted moisturizer or a BB/CC cream that's easily and quickly blended with your fingers. I personally think this is the best way to apply these kind of products, anyway. I'd go for the Estée Lauder Daywear B.B Anti-Oxidant Beauty Benefit Creme, which offers a bit more coverage than your standard BB cream.

If you're having a good skin day and just need some brightening in the inner corner of the eyes, opt for a pen highlighter, like the Yves Saint Laurent Touche Éclat. They're precise and don't require a separate brush to apply.
On the other hand, if you have dark circles and/or blemishes, pick a good pigmented concealer, to avoid wasting time layering until you get the right coverage. Obviously the ideal choice for this is the Urban Decay 24/7 Concealer Pencil. So easy!

For a little something something on your cheeks, go for a powder blusher if you have oily skin — nothing too pigmented though, let's not take any unnecessary risks, people! Burberry Light Glow blushers are ideal to use when time is of the essence. If you have normal to dry skin, opt for a cream formula instead — perhaps the Too Faced Full Bloom Cheek & Lip Colour, since it can be used on the lips as well.

If you like to rock a bright colour on the lips, don't even bother with lip liners or matte lipsticks and a brush. A tinted balm stick like Clinique Chubby Stick Intense will be your new obsession. Such a brilliant product!

To all the fans of defined eyes out there, put aside that gel liner and bring on your Rimmel Scandaleyes Stick. It is ridiculously easy to use and sets in place. Apply close to the lashes, just in the outer corners and leave it as is, or smudge quickly before it sets. Of course, you can just opt for a few lashings of mascara. Choose a formula that provides both volume and curl. Join the Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara club. It's fab!

One last advice, if you get shiny on the T-zone: always keep a compact powder and blotting paper in your make-up bag, to touch up during the day. So, there you have it: an edited make-up wardrobe, to transform your face in under five minutes! Now, go!

Tweet

Top picks | Peach correctors

If you have dark circles under the eyes or discoloration, then corrector is your friend. If your skin tone is medium to dark, then corrector is your best friend.
Basically, if you feel that a concealer alone isn't doing enough, then you probably need a corrector to neutralize an ashy tone (using peach or pink shades) or redness/spots (using yellow or green toned correctors).
Since I have permanent dark circles, I always need to apply something with a peach tone to correct the shadow and brighten up the area. Only a product like Make Up For Ever Full Cover, being completely opaque, could camouflage the darkness completely, but I find it too drying and heavy to use under the eyes. If I want to go light with the amount of product applied, then I rely on a highlighting pen to brighten key areas.

One that I find has the best texture is the Giorgio Armani Master Corrector in Abricot. It comes in a liquid form and has a nice payoff, which is quite rare. The fine wand allows for precise application and a little bit goes a long way. Looks very natural — on it's own or under a base/concealer — and feels very comfortable on the skin. And, probably because you don't need much at all, it doesn't crease. The formula contains vitamin E and glycerin. I think this suits light to medium skin tones pretty well, but I'm not sure if it works on darker ones. Would be nice to have another shade in the the same Abricot family.

The next one, is a holy grail product in the blogosphere: Bobbi Brown Corrector in Peach. A truly creamy formula, that blends easily and is infused with skin conditioners. This product works best under a concealer that matches the skin tone, especially on yellow undertones. Provides a good coverage, but in my case, creases a bit without powder on top. The best part is the wide shade range that will suit everyone, whether you need a peach or a bisque corrector. Big thumbs up!

Speaking of wide shade ranges, all MAC concealers that come in NW shades are ideal for correcting the under eye area. For example, Studio Finish Concealer (shown above in NW25) provides a really good coverage, due to it's waxy texture, that works best when warmed up with fingers and patted on, for a natural coverage — as natural as a full coverage gets, really. Also great to cover blemishes or tattoos. The formula with an SPF 35 is water resistant, fragrance-free and non-comedogenic. Contains antioxidants and silica — the latter absorbs skin's oils to provide a matte finish that lasts longer.

A good option to correct really dark circles or patches (sometimes around the mouth) is Make Up For Ever Camouflage Cream in 20 Orange. This looks a bit scary on the pot, but does a great job in neutralizing bluish circles or dark areas on the skin. As one would've guess, this has to be topped up by a concealer, to achieve a natural, seamless finish. For light to medium skin tones it's best to mix it with a concealer (that is a shade lighter) and then apply the usual concealer on top. The mixing ratio depends on your personal shade, so it's best to try ahead and see which "formula" suits you best. A good test (for anything) is looking closely into a mirror with bright sunlight.

Tweet

Empties #2

My second post on products I've used up features some haircare, a bit of skincare and, of course, make-up. For some reason, I now have a lot of products that are almost empty. That's what happens when you use a lot of different things...

I'm on my second bottle of Schwarzkopf Professional BC Oil Miracle Finishing Treatment. It's an amber coloured oil with a thick texture and a nice fragrance. By the way, there's a light version for fine hair – you can find it here.
I usually distribute a small amount of product onto the lenghts and ends of towel-dried hair, then blow-dry it. I use it on dry hair too, particularly in the winter – it absorbs quickly, thanks to an "evaporating formula". The argan oil leaves the hair nourished and really shiny. Just healthy looking hair that smells really good – although I prefer the scent of the light version, which is very soft and delicate. A great product to camouflage split ends, as well.

Soap and Glory Hand Food. Is there anything else to say, after this rave post? Needless to say, I'll repurchase it – when I finish my Caudalie one.

The next item, belongs to my essentials list, meaning, I need this at all times. La Roche-Posay Hydraphase Intense Eyes, or, the puffiness killer? A great option for dehydrated and uncomfortable skin around the eye. A refreshing gel that smoothes and refines the texture, providing a rested appearance, thanks to hyaluronic acid fragments, sodium hyaluronate and glycerin in the formula. I like to use this as a hydrating mask for the under-eye area, when I feel more dehydrated. Bonus: works well under make-up and is suited for sensitive skin.

In the highlighting department, I (unfortunately) finished my Guerlain Precious Light in the colour 2. This might be the best formula when it comes to highlighting pens – no visible glitter or shimmer whatsoever. Neutralizes any darkness with it's light reflecting properties. Just use it in key areas, like the inner corner of the eyes, on top of the cheekbones, bridge of the nose and cupid's bow. If you have a recession on the under-eye area, use just a tiny bit of this on the dark shadow – face down and look straight ahead on the mirror, you'll see it. Do not use it in puffy areas, it's going to make it worse.

Lastly, a mascara: Helena Rubinstein Lash Queen Sexy Blacks. I like everything about this: the packaging, the scent, the wand and the formula. And, it's inspired by feminine curves and lace.
I like this brand since I was a kid. I loved playing with my mum's mascara and lipsticks. My head was swooning over that gold and luxurious packaging. When I learned that she actually used all Helena Rubinstein products, I was convinced that it was the high-end brand.
Anyways, the formula is elongating and volumizing, while the hourglass shaped brush really catches all the lashes, curling them. Holds well throughout the day and it's easy to remove. I find that it doesn't clump and feels natural and soft to the touch.

Tweet