Showing posts with label Bobbi Brown. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bobbi Brown. Show all posts

Sunday, June 09, 2013

Concealing (truly) dark circles

If you own a pair of these, then I bet you roll your eyes out when someone says "I suffer from really bad dark circles", but really it's a sheer blue/purple toned (temporary) shadow.
I'm talking about the real thing, as in whether you sleep well or not, it doesn't make the slightest difference. Along with those big brown eyes, you also inherited the dark circles around them. And I mean circles, literally.


What you can do, is to embrace the world of make-up to cover them up. Considering that we are are trying to make that area much lighter, in order to match the surrounding skin, it is not an easy breezy goal to achieve. At first.
There are quite different types of concealers or correctors to choose from, just depends on the final result that you're looking for.

HIGH COVERAGE CONCEALER
This is an obvious choice and, probably, the first solution you think of. A concealer like Make Up For Ever Full Cover or Urban Decay 24/7 Concealer Pencil are the go-to options, if you want something that will last all day — especially in hot, humid weather — and effectively provide a flawless look.
They're less creamy and require a quick application, because they set. Which is great, since there's no collecting into fine lines during the day. But, it also means that usually the finish is matte — not the best option for dry skin types. Do opt for a shade that is just a bit lighter, considering that matte products usually look darker once they set.

BRIGHTENING CORRECTOR
The oldest trick in the book is applying a corrector with a peach or pink tint. Usually creamier in texture, correctors help to neutralize and warm up the the brown/ashy colour of the circles, brightening the area — ideal to use in the inner corners, since most people have a little receding area that creates a shadow. 
Top rated options include the notorious Bobbi Brown Creamy Corrector and my favourite: Giorgio Armani Master Corrector. You wouldn't believe what a teeny-tiny amount of this liquid can achieve. Five stars.

HIGHLIGHTING PENS
I'm sure you've seen a lot of them around, lately. Both high-end and High Street brands have a product of sorts, but they are not all the same. One thing they have in common is the light reflecting quality, which is brilliant to brighten the inner corners, where it's usually darker.
Most of them have a beige/golden tone that allows you to wear it after your regular concealer, sparingly, bringing a bit of sheen on a matte or dull finish. Top picks: Guerlain Precious Light and Yves Saint Laurent Touche Éclat, of course.
Some highlighting pens have more of a peach or pink shade, that almost works as a corrector. Yes, the formula is more sheer, but for an effortless and natural "no make-up" look, the light reflecting attribute counteracts the darkness, allowing you to pull it of on it's own. Just rely on a product that works best for you, making sure that it's not very sheer. Do try Clinique Airbrush Concealer.
A while ago, I tried a sample of Burberry Sheer Concealer and was taken aback by it's coverage. Not only had the perfect corrector shade (Rosy Beige No.03), but the formula wasn't as sheer as I'd expected. I actually picked it up before finishing this post. 
I must mention a very important detail here: these are not ideal for photography, because of their light reflecting properties, which may not look great on camera. Unless they're used sparingly in specific areas, like the top of cheekbones or the very inner corners.


Sunday, March 17, 2013

Top picks | Peach correctors



If you have dark circles under the eyes or discoloration, then corrector is your friend. If your skin tone is medium to dark, then corrector is your best friend.
Basically, if you feel that a concealer alone isn't doing enough, then you probably need a corrector to neutralize an ashy tone (using peach or pink shades) or redness/spots (using yellow or green toned correctors).
Since I have permanent dark circles, I always need to apply something with a peach tone to correct the shadow and brighten up the area. Only a product like Make Up For Ever Full Cover, being completely opaque, could camouflage the darkness completely, but I find it too drying and heavy to use under the eyes. If I want to go light with the amount of product applied, then I rely on a highlighting pen to brighten key areas.

One that I find has the best texture is the Giorgio Armani Master Corrector in Abricot. It comes in a liquid form and has a nice payoff, which is quite rare. The fine wand allows for precise application and a little bit goes a long way. Looks very natural — on it's own or under a base/concealer — and feels very comfortable on the skin. And, probably because you don't need much at all, it doesn't crease. The formula contains vitamin E and glycerin. I think this suits light to medium skin tones pretty well, but I'm not sure if it works on darker ones. Would be nice to have another shade in the the same Abricot family.

The next one, is a holy grail product in the blogosphere: Bobbi Brown Corrector in Peach. A truly creamy formula, that blends easily and is infused with skin conditioners. This product works best under a concealer that matches the skin tone, especially on yellow undertones. Provides a good coverage, but in my case, creases a bit without powder on top. The best part is the wide shade range that will suit everyone, whether you need a peach or a bisque corrector. Big thumbs up!

Speaking of wide shade ranges, all MAC concealers that come in NW shades are ideal for correcting the under eye area. For example, Studio Finish Concealer (shown above in NW25) provides a really good coverage, due to it's waxy texture, that works best when warmed up with fingers and patted on, for a natural coverage — as natural as a full coverage gets, really. Also great to cover blemishes or tattoos. The formula with an SPF 35 is water resistant, fragrance-free and non-comedogenic. Contains antioxidants and silica — the latter absorbs skin's oils to provide a matte finish that lasts longer.

A good option to correct really dark circles or patches (sometimes around the mouth) is Make Up For Ever Camouflage Cream in 20 Orange. This looks a bit scary on the pot, but does a great job in neutralizing bluish circles or dark areas on the skin. As one would've guess, this has to be topped up by a concealer, to achieve a natural, seamless finish. For light to medium skin tones it's best to mix it with a concealer (that is a shade lighter) and then apply the usual concealer on top. The mixing ratio depends on your personal shade, so it's best to try ahead and see which "formula" suits you best. A good test (for anything) is looking closely into a mirror with bright sunlight.